Radiant Floor Heating in Ottawa
Hydronic in-floor heat for basements, additions, garages and bathrooms, designed around the right boiler
- 5.0 · 396 Google reviews
- TSSA & HRAI approved
- 24/7 emergency service
- Family-owned since 2005
Hydronic in-floor heat for basements, additions, garages and bathrooms, designed around the right boiler
- Free estimates on new installations
- Financing from $49/month (OAC)
- All makes and models serviced
How radiant floor heating works
Radiant floor heating warms the floor itself, and the floor warms the people and objects in the room. Hot water flows through loops of PEX tubing set in a concrete slab or fastened under the subfloor, and the whole surface gives off gentle, even heat.
There is no forced air, so there are no drafts, no blowing dust and no fan noise. The warmth stays low in the room, where you are, instead of collecting at the ceiling. Many homeowners find they are comfortable a degree or two lower on the thermostat.
In Ottawa, basement slabs sit against cold ground for five months of the year. In-floor heat is one of the most effective ways to make a lower level feel like the rest of the house, and it is a popular choice for custom builds, additions and heated garages.
Where in-floor heating makes the most sense
Radiant heat works anywhere, but it pays off most in spaces that are hard to keep warm with forced air.
Basements and basement suites
A concrete slab feels cold even when the air is warm. Tubing in a new slab, or a low-profile panel system over an existing one, turns the floor into the heat source for rec rooms, bedrooms and legal suites.
Additions and sunrooms
Stretching old ductwork to a new addition often leaves it the coldest room in the house. A dedicated radiant zone heats the space on its own thermostat, with no new duct runs.
Garages and workshops
Tubing in a garage slab, filled with a glycol antifreeze mix, keeps the floor dry and the space usable all winter. Plan it before the concrete is poured; if the slab is already in, a garage heater is the practical alternative.
Learn more →Bathrooms
Warm tile under bare feet is the most requested upgrade. For one bathroom, an electric mat under the tile is often simpler than a hydronic loop; for several, a hydronic zone usually makes more sense.
Whole homes on hot water heat
New builds and gut renovations can run radiant floors on every level from one boiler. Because radiant floors do not cool, many owners add ductless mini-splits for summer.
Learn more →Hydronic vs electric radiant floor heating
Hydronic systems are a heating system; electric mats are mostly a comfort feature. The right choice depends on how much floor you want to heat and whether the floor has to heat the room on its own.
| Hydronic (hot water) | Electric mats or cables | |
|---|---|---|
| Heat source | Boiler, combi boiler or an approved water heater | Electric resistance on a dedicated circuit |
| Best for | Basements, additions, garages, whole floors | One bathroom or a small kitchen area |
| Running cost | Lower for large areas on natural gas | Higher per hour of use; fine for small areas |
| Installation | Tubing, manifold, pumps, mixing valve, controls | Mat under tile, floor-sensing thermostat, wiring |
| Response | Slow and steady, especially in a slab | Warms faster in a thin tile floor |
Our rule of thumb: if the area is bigger than a bathroom or two, or the floor must actually heat the room through a −25 °C night, choose hydronic. Electric mats are usually installed by the tile setter and electrician during a bathroom renovation.
Heat sources: boilers, combi boilers and water heaters
A hydronic floor needs a source of hot water. For most Ottawa projects that is a high-efficiency condensing boiler, which runs most efficiently at the low water temperatures radiant floors use.
Condensing (mod/con) boiler.
The standard choice for a whole floor, several zones or a whole house. It modulates its output, and with outdoor reset it lowers the water temperature on mild days.
Combi boiler.
Heats the floors and supplies on-demand domestic hot water from one wall-hung unit. A good fit for smaller homes or a basement suite with its own system.
Your existing boiler.
If you already heat with radiators, a new radiant zone can often be added with a mixing valve that brings the water down to a floor-safe temperature.
A water heater (combination system).
For one small zone, some approved water heaters can supply a radiant loop through a heat exchanger. It must be designed so drinking water and heating water stay separate.
Slab systems typically run water at roughly 30 to 50 °C, far cooler than cast-iron radiators, and the floor surface is kept below about 29 °C for comfort. See our boiler repair and installation page for heat source options, or tankless water heaters if domestic hot water is part of the plan.
Designing a radiant system: heat loss, tubing and zoning
- 1
Heat-loss calculation
We calculate how much heat each room loses on a −25 °C design day. That number sets tube spacing, water temperature and boiler size, and tells us whether the floor alone can heat the room.
- 2
Insulation below the tubing
Rigid foam under a slab, or insulation under a staple-up floor, sends heat up into the room instead of down into the ground or the ceiling below.
- 3
Tube layout and loop lengths
Tubing goes in tighter along cold exterior walls, and loops are kept to sensible lengths so each one gets even flow. Every loop returns to a manifold with balancing valves.
- 4
Zoning and thermostats
Spaces used differently, such as a basement bedroom and a gym, get their own zone. Floor-sensing thermostats protect wood and vinyl flooring from overheating.
- 5
Floor coverings
Tile and stone pass heat best. Engineered wood, vinyl plank and thin carpet work at the right water temperature; thick carpet and pad work against you.
- 6
Pressure test and commissioning
Tubing is pressure-tested before concrete is poured or the floor is closed. Then the system is filled, purged of air, balanced and set up for the season.
Radiant floor heating cost in Ottawa
Radiant floor heating is quoted per project. The cost depends on the area, whether tubing goes into new concrete or under an existing floor, how many zones you want and whether you need a new heat source.
| Item | Typical cost (CAD, before rebates) |
|---|---|
| Hydronic radiant system (tubing, manifold, pumps, controls) | Quoted per project after a heat-loss assessment |
| New high-efficiency boiler or combi boiler, if needed | $7,000 – $15,000 installed |
| Electric floor mat for one bathroom | Quoted with the renovation |
The least expensive time to add radiant heat is before concrete is poured or a subfloor goes down. Retrofitting under an existing finished floor is possible with staple-up tubing or low-profile panels, but it costs more per square foot and gives up some performance.
The final price depends on your home, the equipment you choose and the venting and piping it needs. Oria gives free estimates on new installations, and financing from $49/month is available on approved credit. Rebates may be available for high-efficiency equipment. Oria will check current programs for your home; see our HVAC rebates page.
Maintaining an in-floor heating system
The PEX tubing in your floor is very durable. The parts that need attention are the boiler, pumps, valves and controls.
Book an annual boiler service
In early fall: combustion and carbon monoxide check, heat exchanger and condensate trap cleaning, and a test of the safety controls.
Watch the pressure gauge.
Note the normal reading. A slow drop can mean a leak at a fitting or manifold; a steady climb points to the expansion tank or fill valve.
Test glycol every few years
In garage and other freeze-prone zones. Glycol breaks down and turns acidic over time, which is hard on pumps and the boiler.
Purge air after any work.
Gurgling or one cold loop on the manifold usually means trapped air.
Leave the setting alone.
A slab takes hours to change temperature, so deep night setbacks save little and leave the floor cold in the morning.
If a zone stops heating in a cold snap, call us. Our emergency HVAC page explains what to check while you wait.
Frequently Asked Questions
Straight answers from licensed Ottawa technicians. Still have a question? Call us any time.
How much does radiant floor heating cost in Ottawa?
Radiant floor heating in Ottawa is quoted per project, because the price depends on the floor area, whether tubing goes into new concrete or under an existing floor, the number of zones and whether you need a new heat source. If a new high-efficiency boiler or combi boiler is required, that part typically costs $7,000 to $15,000 installed. Oria gives free estimates on new installations.
Is radiant floor heating worth it in a basement?
Often, yes. A basement slab stays cold against the ground for much of an Ottawa winter, and forced air alone rarely makes it feel warm underfoot. Radiant heat in the slab warms the floor directly and spreads heat evenly with no drafts. It is easiest and most cost-effective when tubing goes in before a new slab or subfloor is installed.
Is hydronic or electric radiant floor heating better?
Hydronic radiant heat is better for larger areas such as basements, additions, garages or whole floors, because heating water with a high-efficiency gas boiler is cheaper to run than electric resistance. Electric mats are simpler and less expensive to install for one bathroom or a small kitchen area, where the main goal is a warm floor rather than heating the whole room.
Can radiant floor heating be added to my existing boiler?
In many cases, yes. If your boiler has capacity to spare, a new radiant zone can be added with its own circulator and a mixing valve that lowers the water to a floor-safe temperature. A technician needs to check the boiler’s output against the home’s total heat loss first. Older, oversized cast-iron boilers can work, but a condensing boiler is far more efficient with radiant floors.
Can radiant floors heat a whole house in Ottawa?
Yes, with proper design. A well-insulated home with radiant floors on every level, sized to Ottawa’s −25 °C design temperature, can be heated entirely by its floors. Rooms with large windows or high heat loss may need tighter tube spacing or a supplementary heat source. Radiant floors do not provide cooling, so many owners add ductless mini-splits for summer.
Can I put radiant heat under hardwood or vinyl plank?
Yes, with the right products and controls. Engineered hardwood and many vinyl plank floors are rated for radiant heat, but they need lower water temperatures and a floor-sensing thermostat so the surface stays within the manufacturer’s limit. Solid hardwood is more prone to gapping and is usually avoided. Check the flooring warranty before choosing, since it sets the maximum surface temperature.
Does radiant floor heating need maintenance?
Very little, but some. The tubing itself rarely needs attention. The boiler should be serviced once a year, the system pressure checked regularly, and air purged if a loop stops heating. Systems with glycol in garages or other freeze-prone areas should have the glycol tested every few years, because it breaks down and becomes acidic over time.
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